Third and final day went great. it was a short demo in the morning where i showed a block-in and then the class painted on their own the rest of the day. some great paintings were done but i'm not interested in that and dont judge a workshops success on what is done, but on what is learned. everybody was whipped but happy at the end as they headed back home all over the state. special thanks to shawn at Woods Gallery for sponsoring the workshop and making everything easy for this old painter.
Friday, April 30, 2010
Day 3- BHI workshop
Third and final day went great. it was a short demo in the morning where i showed a block-in and then the class painted on their own the rest of the day. some great paintings were done but i'm not interested in that and dont judge a workshops success on what is done, but on what is learned. everybody was whipped but happy at the end as they headed back home all over the state. special thanks to shawn at Woods Gallery for sponsoring the workshop and making everything easy for this old painter.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Bald Head Workshop- Day Two
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Day 1- Bald Head Workshop
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Jazzing an old one
Morning Light and Reflection-8x10
SOLD
What do you think? better?
Dream Street-20x16-SOLD
Got this question in my comments section. Feel free to ask me anything and i'll answer them in the next post.
note: no email questions please. thanks
the question was about varnishing paintings and flat spots.
A: the dull spots are from the oil in the paint sinking into the ground. i have at times painted retouch varnish over a painting to give it an even shine, if it was splotchy in this way, but 8 times out of ten i'll leave it with the semi-matte finish i usually get when the painting is done. the only time i get dull spots is if i only apply one coat of paint on a passage of the underpainting and it had alot of thinner in it. then, if the passage next to it gets thicker paint, one will look dull and one semi shiny. working a passage several times makes sure this doesnt happen, and making sure you dont use a lot of thinner will help prevent dull spots.
i love Liquin and have even used a thin coat of it (mixed with thinner) as a retouch varnish in a pinch. the Liquin thins the paint like i used to use the thinner for but doesnt leave those flat spots. try it, i think you'll agree.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Work in Progress-Dream Street-20x16
first step- when you want to transfer the image onto a bigger canvas put the study in plastic and draw horizontal marks from corner to corner then take a t-square and draw a horizontal line that cuts right thru where the X is. then do the same vertically.this will make four squares with one line going diagonally thru it. then draw a horizontal from corner to corner of those squares. now that will be enough for most easy compositions but if there is a square that has lots more detail in it you can keep drawing more and more squares by drawing corner diagonals and taking the t-square going thru where the diagonals cross.
after this is done you do the same on your larger canvas. now remember that for this to work, you have to have the same ratio of heighth to width. easiest way is to double the size of the study. 9x12 can be done on a 12x16 because the heighth to width ratio is 3:4. or you can go buy one of those proportion wheels at the art supply store to figure it out.
then i paint on rose madder and yellow ochre acrylic washes on the white gessoed panel board i buy at Lowes and cut on my table saw. using a stray tube of charvin paint that looks like alizarin crimson and orange with a touch of green, i draw in the composition and lay in the shapes using varying amounts of Liquin to make the mixtures lighter and darker. if i want it really light i just wipe down to the original acrylic wash that is not affected in the least by the oil paint that was on top of it. cool thing is--this will dry in less than an hour, so i can start laying in my darks. i mix the paint in piles and paint it right on the plastic to make sure the value is right (most important) and the color is close (secondary importance).
here ive got all the shadows laid in. i didnt like the yellow in the sky and on the road in the foreground so i went back with my rose madder acrylic and cooled off those two shapes (not shown here)
i must say, this one's going very easily since ive already done it once before. i'll post the painting tomorrow when i finish it up.
Monday, April 19, 2010
County Line Homestead-6x8-SOLD
View of the Shoals 8x10
Friday, April 16, 2010
New Gallery on Cape Cod
the gallery carries some of my fave cape school artists Giamarrino and Clayton. i think my brushwork will complement most of the other artists knife work (in the true cape school tradition)
i'm planning on making two trips up to paint in early july and middle of october. havent been to the cape in the summer before. i cant wait! its where everybody from key west goes when its too hot, so i'll be escaping the stifling NC heat too.
now on to questions asked on the comments section recently. if you'd like to ask a question i'd love to answer it in a post but only if you leave it in the comments section below. i cant answer individual emails.
Q: do you use a mother color in each of the light colors to get the light so consistent and mellow? i notice that your latest paintings all have that special quality of light. It can't be exactly what you are looking at at least not what I see when I view a scene
Also, I know you're trying the Charvin paint but do you still use Lucas?
A: i use Lukas on all but one color, Gamblin Radiant Turquoise.
i dont use a mother color but just try to compare them to the real thing and either go with what i see or paint a color that i think would look better, warmer, cooler, lighter, darker, more saturated, less saturated.
Q: Your Arendell Street painting is bathed in sunlight. How do you get this overall feel in the entire painting? The underpainting, color warmth or the high shadow contrasts?
A: you got em both right. super dark shadows and super light lights makes a scene look very sunny. then i underpaint the whole panel with warm undertone and let it show inbetween shapes when i'm overpainting. i can control how warm it stays by how much of it i cover up
sort of like this one. only this is not a real warm scene. i look at it and see that the warmest shape (and its small) is the green grass in front. its not a big part of the scene so i put down rose madder acrylic real thin(a wash) in the light shapes and darker in the shadow shapes (more out of the tube)
this will allow pink will peek out all over the painting setting the light effect and that flickering effect us cape school inspired painters love.
Ive got some DVD's available for $24.99 each and i'll ship em to you free. if youre interested in one let me know and i'll give you a choice of five different titles from boat painting to architecture.
The Tuscany workshop is a go. it'll be the last week of september and first week of october. ten days of instruction. classes are before lunch with several classes from drawing to painting to photography, and youre free to do your thing the rest of the day. contact me if youre interested. its filling up quite quickly.
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Pivers Island Anchorage-11x14
when i was tweaking in the studio i didnt like the water and thought i'd lighten it up and saturate the blue some. i got it just a little to grey out there for my liking. being such a big and important shape i decided to try it out on a plastic sleeve first. after i decided that was much better i mixed a big pile of that color and took the sleeve off and painted it in. worked great. that way you get to look at the change and decide if you like it or not before committing in paint on your original.
here's my reference photo in case i needed it, which i did. thought i could finish it outside, and almost did, but i'm doing more to them in the studio now than i used to. so far to approval from everybody who's seen my work prior to now. so thats a good thing!
Monday, April 12, 2010
Arendell St.-8x10
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Charleston Traffic Jam-10x8-SOLD
SOLD
Friday, April 9, 2010
Charleston Work-Step by Step demo-8x10
Thursday, April 8, 2010
Harkers Island Shoreline-12x16
Morehead City Waterfront from Capt Bills-9x12
Location: Gallery 31, 31 Main Street Orleans, Massachusetts
Dates: Saturday, June 26 and Sunday, June 27, 2010
Time: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Cost: $110.00 per participant, limit of fifteen.
This workshop is designed for the beginning and intermediate participant.
This two day landscape painting workshop will take place on locations near and around
Gallery 31 in Orleans. Following a brief meet and greet at Gallery 31, we will begin our day a short distance from the Gallery and assemble at Rock Harbor in Orleans. There will be a demonstration by a gallery artist in “How to Start a Landscape Painting”. We will discuss the importance of the original sketching process, composition, values and color. Several artists and instructors from Gallery 31 will work one on one with you throughout the two days, thus providing the participants with a supportive and collegial atmosphere. Each morning will be followed by an informal group critique. We will then break for lunch where participants can choose from a variety of local eateries within walking distance of the gallery, and one actually in Rock Harbor. We will paint at a different location during the afternoon session and have an end of the day critique at 4 p.m. Day two will find us painting on location at sites to be determined on Saturday. Sunday’s class will conclude with a critique and a wine and cheese reception.
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Beaufort Parking Places-SOLD
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
The Enhancement-8x8-SOLD
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Spring on the Marsh-22x28
Here's the finished 22x28 that i've been working on for the last several days. sketches, studies, two days in the field and some tweaking in the studio. was it worth it? only those looking at it will be able to answer that but i think that i love it. its still has a plein air, spontaneous and colorful look that marks my style, but its more subtle and complex in all the shapes. note: check out the blah marsh picture under this post to see how i colorized it to look like spring.
i had time to work the painting like i wanted to without any thought, whatsoever, of time. it was liberating. work on the painting as long as it takes, period. the question will be will folks think its worth the extra money. but i guess thats why really good wine, sold at a fine wine dealer that took decades to make, costs more than wine called Two Buck Chuck that they just made last month and sell at Trader Joe's grocery store.
Stay tuned for the results!
Saturday, April 3, 2010
Goodbye Daily Painters Gallery!
Friday, April 2, 2010
4th St. Shadows-10x8
Day two of the 22x28 marsh piece. yesterday i did an 8x10 to get the image/value and color scheme firmly inplanted in my mind. looking at it i liked the composition and feel of it so i returned at the same time of day and the exact location. i found the holes in the sand the easel made yesterday and set up on them. funny how being just a few feet this way or that will change the shapes.
above shows the acrylic paint i smear all over the gessoed panel using a wet paper towel i wet in the sound water. keeping it lighter in the sky area and a little darker and cooler (compared to yellow)in the land mass area. this dries really quick and i can draw the shapes on with Liquin and alizarin crimson and a little blue. i look at the scene to see if i want to change anything from the 8x10 that i have on the ground (from yesterday) so i can see it easily.
here's what it looks like with some oil on the shapes. lots of Liquin, a little thinner and very loose brushstrokes with my fave 1" American Painter brush from Michael's. this is one of the best large brushes i've ever used. i use only their filberts, the flats, i hate. just my preference but if you ever want a good large brush try it out. the Liquin and paint soak in and dry really quick. up to now i might have half an hour or 45 minutes in it so far.
the lights changing after several hours, and at this point i'm a little past the block-in stage. i'll come back tomorrow to finish it. the paint will be pretty much dry to the touch so i'll go back into each shape and make small value and temperature shifts in each shape without messing up the values/temperatures of the big shapes. think of it this way. you worked hard all the way up to this point, why would you want to change that. all we want to do is add complexity, and firm up details, and do the final check that all values/temperatures/shapes are correct. that will come in tomorrows painting session here. same time. same place, same Bat station.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Coming Alive-8x10
Another step-by-step of a larger work ive got in my head. here's a digital pic of the scene
note: see why i dont like to paint from photos? i know you can photoshop it and saturate the colors up but those arent the real color harmonies now are they? much better to stand there and mix what you see. this way it smacks of reality, and why wouldnt it?
then....
i begin with a few thumbnails after climbing down into the marsh. i had two ideas but after drawing them i liked the top left scene better than the reflections of some trees i liked too. i moved the land mass over in the middleground, edited out the rocks in the foreground to make the rocks in the middle ground the most detailed (focal point) and more prominent, and zoomed in on the scene.
i lay down a yellow ochre/orange acrylic underpainting and then mix up colors close to the shapes with oil paint and Liquin. Here i'm more interested in getting the value right and i'm trying to hone in on the temperature and hue, but thats secondary.
after i finished the plein air pc, i realized that there was one trouble spot on the piece coming out of the field (before fixing it later this afternoon). so i went to eat lunch and think about how to resolve it. decided to go back and take some reference photos of that one area giving me a problem. took my sketchbook back and wrote some notes on it that you can see on the sketchpad to remind me in the studio what might help fix it. between that and the photos i was able to resolve the problem.
my new mantra "its not how many you can do in a day, but how many good ones can you do, period" is making me alot less production oriented and more quality oriented. that means slowing down, doing sketches, thinking, fixing etc. when all youre concerned about is numbers its absurd to even consider such steps. no time! this new MO will take a year or so to get firmly ingrained in me but better paintings will be worth it. hopefully my conversion rate (paintings done: to paintings sold) will increase and reward me. Being thoughtful and trying to do paintings that dont have glaring problems is hard work. much easier to bang em out and not think about the end product too much. just being honest
i'll use the finished 8x10 as a dry run for the big one, which should slide off the brush with all this prelim preparation. thats the plan, anyway.